India: Old Delhi in adjectives

BY ONEIKA RAYMOND

Sensory overload in the oldest part of Delhi.

Describe Old Delhi in one word? Impossible.  Let’s try ten adjectives: fragrant, daunting, beautiful, alert, atmospheric…haunting.  Surprising. Comical. Puzzling and vivid.

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Nearly a year ago I travelled to India, which, from my perspective, might as well have been eons ago. Since, I’ve seemingly lived a thousand travel lives: amongst a multitude of other things, I’ve seen the pyramids in Egypt, moved back to Hong Kong,  lain on the beach in Thailand, and gotten engaged in Germany. Sadly but predictably, the minutiae of the India trip is long forgotten. I don’t remember the situation of the sights, how much the visa cost, or how long the train ride was from Delhi to Agra. Par for the course for a rolling stone like myself, I guess. But luckily the impression India left on me is long lasting, as are the pictures.

 

Old Delhi is:

 

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Fragrant- Cardamom and incense linger in the air (there’s exhaust, too, but let’s focus on the positive).

Daunting – The unfamiliar food, strange smells, and intense stares from locals can unsettle you. But I found that a disarming smile and openness to discover new eats served me well.

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Beautiful and vivid –  The people, the textiles, the ramshackle buildings. Just stunning.

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Alert –  I felt hyper-aware of my surroundings, and truthfully not always in a good way. What did I fear? The crush of people coming at me from all sides made me clutch my bag and large camera tightly. Irrational? Perhaps.

Atmospheric – This is India. I felt like I was in India. There were saris and chapatis and Mughal architecture and 24 karat gold.

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Haunting – Faces like this are indelibly etched in my psyche.

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Surprising and puzzling – I’m a well-worn traveller at this point but the rows of food stalls with scores of men eating outside suprised me. I’m used to seeing locals at work and leisure, but what struck me was that they ate and socialized all while in the squatting position. Effortlessly. No chairs, no tables. As if it were the most natural thing in the world. How do they do it? I have bad knees, so only looked on from my chair in an adjacent restaurant in awe.

Comical – See below.
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Have you ever been to India? Do you have any desire to go?

 

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58 Comments

  • I’d love to go, even though I know it will be shocking and daunting, as you write in this post.

  • India is one of those places that really sticks to you, whether you loved the country or hated it. These adjectives really describe the lasting impressions of the place. I would probably add “loud” to the list… I’d love to go back even though I swore I would never go back, LOL… India does that to you…

  • I have been wanting to go to India for the longest! The intense stares and treatment of Africans scared me a bit. But I am determined, curiosity and a need for a challenge overwhelms me. I will practice smiling.

  • Oh how this post makes me miss India and old Delhi…I remember my first time in old Delhi I could only stay for an hour or two…I was that overwhelemed! But three short months later I was leading walking tours through it….what a wonderful post..thank you do te reminder and resurrecting some beautiful memories 🙂

  • Truly fantastic shots here, I love photo essays like this that capture the feeling of a place and its people. I’d love love love to visit India, it feels like an impossible dream at this point but you never know!

  • I would love to travel to India, and these pictures really seem to capture life in Old Delhi. My favorites are probably the third and fourth down. Lovely!

  • I love this post! 🙂 Beautiful photos and an original way to describe India. I haven’t been yet but I’d really like to go someday.

  • Awesome! I’ve never been to India, but looking through your photos, I really felt like I was right in the middle of Old Delhi with you. I suspect that whenever I do make it to India, these photos have given me a good idea of what to expect!

  • Oneika, this is so timely. I am in the process of planning my summer and India is top of the list. I suddenly started to freak out about how to cope, what to expect, must sees, safety etc. Thank you for reminding me to follow my dreams and get that trip booked.

    Miss you!

    x

  • I lived in India from 2010 till 2012, I loved it and I visited Old Delhi too…it leaves an impression on you…I was extra careful when I visited Delhi, I did not feel safe because of the rape stories I read prior to my visit…but it is a beautiful city.

  • India is not a country I am dying to visit per se but I think if I was ever given the opportunity to visit, I’d go. I do really like the way you modeled this post. Cardamon is definitely one of my favorite spices.

  • I’ve always wanted to visit India but the lifestyle and culture in areas can be so drastically different. Having an appreciation for areas like Old Delhi I would imagine can really put things into perspective.

  • Great pictures! I have been dying to go to Mumbai and Delhi! Someday! =)

  • A lot of people slag Delhi off, but I think it looks fascinating. I nearly went last year, but because of a visa mix up I only saw the Delhi airport from the inside and had to go straight to Nepal instead. I’ll be back one day though!

  • Loved it 🙂 Indian here (Delhiite, in fact), and I love such beautiful posts <3 Thank you!! Old Delhi is one of my favourite parts of the city. I hope you ate well 🙂

  • These are some great Images. They sure tell a story…
    India is certainly on the top of my list.

  • OMG. I remember India. I went in 2005 and it was crazy, noisy, dirty but unbelivably incredible. I had men following me to the bathroom! I don’t think they knew that I was going to the “bathroom,” but were just curious as to where I was going to. The ladies and girls in the manicure shop made me teach them nursery rhymes and I was physically abused by a cow!

    Would I go again? Try and stop me!

  • Wow- we are aiming to go to India for a few months from mid October. Love the photos. Favourite place in India? Did you get the famous Delhi Belly?

  • Wonderful article and your pictures are breathtaking! I absolutely love India, especially Mumbai. I remember when I was planning my trip to India. The major comment from the majority of my friends and family was “why do you want to go to India?” Having spent 2 weeks across Mumbai, New Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, I will say this country is an overflowing of culture. No where else will you have all of your senses be stimulated all at once. I recommend that everyone have India on their travel bucket list.

  • Forgive me if you’ve said this but did you travel solo to india? If so, how was your experience?

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