The Faces of India

BY ONEIKA RAYMOND

I came across many faces and many stories on my short trip to India.

With a population of 16 million in Delhi alone, I quickly became accustomed to people everywhere around me in India.  In my last post I touched briefly on my experiences as a foreigner in Delhi, Agra, and Jodhpur, how I was essentially ‘othered’: curiosity reigned supreme as the locals drank in my anomalous appearance, asked for my picture, touched my skin and hair.

But the curiosity and attraction was mutual.  I found myself mesmerized by all the different types of people I saw and found that I couldn’t be annoyed at all the attention my dark skin and dreadlocks elicited.  After all, travelling IS ‘othering’ in a sense: you travel to see how differently people live and look from yourself,  revel in the diversity and sometimes implausibility (at least in your eyes) of their clothing, style, gait, stature, skin and eye colours. Again and again my gaze lingered on the colourful saris of the Indian woman I met, trying to spot the embellishments that make a Jodhpuri sari different from one from Delhi.  The range of facial hair on men prompted frenzied rumination (why the heck are moustaches so dang popular in India?!).  The eyes of both sexes drew me in; I saw light eyes (my friend told me they are more prevalent in the north) and eyes as dark as midnight, Asian eyes set in faces that looked Nepali and Chinese.

While many people asked to take my picture, I was more shocked at the people who asked me to take pictures of them — a friend of mine tells me that they saw me with my big tourist camera and wanted to  forever become part of my trip to India (at least digitally). I’m thinking  they used my cam as an excuse to talk to me, an icebreaker. At any rate, I’ve included some of these shots below.  Funnily enough, after asking to take their picture, most weren’t interested in seeing it on the display.
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This man worked at our hotel in Jodhpur.  I was waiting at the entrance for my friend when he came up to me and led me on an impromptu tour of the hotel.  His English wasn’t very good but after leading me around he asked me if I wanted to take his picture.  He proudly showed me his medals and told me he was in the military for many years.

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I met this gentleman in Agra; I noticed him using his cell phone to surreptitiously take my photo.  I turned towards him and posed (why not?) so that he could get a better picture.  We started talking and I asked him if I could take his photo.  He agreed and thanked me profusely when I showed him the image.

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This picture is an accident; I was initially trying snap a market scene in Old Delhi when this lady came into view.  Her sari is unlike most of the ones I saw, understated and brown, without embellishment. [Correction: A reader actually tells me this is a burka, not a sari! I’ve never seen a burka like this, thank you for the clarification!]

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I spotted this family in the markets of Old Delhi.  You can’t see it, but all four of them are riding on a scooter.  They were stopped at an intersection when they saw me looking through pictures on my camera.  They asked me and my companion to take their photo — the kids seemed overjoyed to see themselves on the screen.

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These schoolchildren were so cute and happy looking that I couldn’t resist.  I spotted them early in the afternoon in the market in Old Delhi, not sure if they were on their way home from school or getting lunch.

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This is Salim, our moto rickshaw driver in Jodhpur.  He took us to the market in the centre and waited as we bargained our rupees away (I got a funky pair of genie pants).  He had a beautiful smile so at the end of the ride I asked him to take his photo and he obliged.

 

Do you take photos of faces rather than places when you travel?  What is the protocol for you?  Do you ask for permission before snapping people’s portraits?  Why or why not?

SHARING IS CARING

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34 Comments

  • Oneika your picture are fabulous. I’ve never been to India, as you know, but I feel like you have captured the soul of the place in these faces. Really enjoyed this post.

    • Thank you Juliana!! I would love to go back and explore more of the country as it is massive! Maybe we can plan a trip together. 🙂

  • Great photos! I especially like the former soldier and his amazing facial hair.
    I generally avoid taking pictures of people, because I always feel a little awkward doing it, but as you mentioned, most Indians don’t seem to mind at all and actually appear to love having their photo taken.

    • I feel like taking a picture of someone is very personal so I always try to ask :-). It was a complete shock to me how many people requested that I take their photo!

  • I love taking pictures in the markets (even tho I’m always clutching my camera tightly lol) but I always wait till they notice the camera and check their reaction before snapping, just so I don’t offend someone.

  • Sounds like you captured a lot in such a short period of time. The diversity in the faces are amazing. Not sure how I would feel about people touching my hair though. I’m glad that the staring (gawking) did not bother you. Some travelers really have a difficult time with that.

    • I wonder if it’s because of my personality — I’m super outgoing (and a bit of an exhibitionist) so welcome the attention!

  • I wish I had taken more pictures while I was in India, but I was pretty worried of attracting more attention to myself (India wasn’t my best travel experience).

    • Aww that’s too bad! Remind me, were you travelling alone? They would have been super fascinated by your look, particularly your hair!

  • Absolutely loved reading: India is on the top of my list of the places to visit. I use to work for an Indian man 10 yrs ago and fell inlove with their cuisine. Everything was bold flavors. I am looking forward to
    Visiting someday

    • The colours are bold as well! I love how dramatic they are!

  • Beautiful pictures. My family is originally from India, but I’ve never been- hope to go someday soon. The woman in the 3rd picture with the plain brown garments is wearing a burka, not a sari. Burkas are very common among India’s Muslim women- they are usually plain. 🙂

    • Ooh thank you for this!! I have never seen a burka with a shape like this, almost like a wedding veil (for lack of a better term)! The only I’ve seen are usually wrapped all the way around the head. Thank you! Which part of India is your family from?

  • Just wanted to say I love your blog and you take awesome photos!!

  • Gorgeous pictures! I’m always a little shy about taking people’s photos while I’m travelling but I love it when people see me with my camera and ask to have their photo taken. Pictures of scenery are beautiful but it’s the pictures of people that really tell a story.

  • I usually try to take pictures of people without them knowing because I want to get them just being themselves. Many times they’re very engrossed in what they’re doing and I want to capture that. Or they have a particular look on their face that I want to get. That’s when a good zoom comes in handy…so they don’t ever know! A couple of my favorite pictures, though, are ones that people asked me to take of them so now when people ask I always oblige (especially now that they’re digital…no “wasting” film).

  • Brilliant photos, Oneika! I’m so jealous that you went to Jodhpur – I’m currently trying to save up to go to India but struggling to work out how to do it on my own (debating whether to do an organised group trip, for one thing). Your photos are just the kind of images that I want to take in India and it’s great to see how your trip’s going.

  • Lovely pics. It is those connections that make a trip memorable for me. I had to laugh at the family-style scooter lol. The most people I saw on one scooter had a child in the front, one in the back and a baby sandwiched in the middle of both parents!

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  • I didn’t take picture of people until my trip to Istanbul, the first outside of EU borders. I once snapped a picture to a shoeshine, and he wanted money in return. I just laughed and walked away. I think he insulted me in Turkish! I think I will ask from now on.

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